Eastern
Shanghai, Hangzhou, Yangzhou
Shanghai and its neighbouring cities in the fertile lower valley of the Yangtze River offer a diversity of cooking styles. This region is regarded as the Rice Bowl of China. The flavours are richer and heavier than those of Beijing or Cantonese schools and the emphasis is on freshness and pure and natural flavours.
The fruits of the Yangtze River, including shrimps, crab, wild duck and carp, have had a major influence in the cuisine of the region.
Rice wine is another local product and often goes into dishes like Drunken Chicken and Drunken Spare Ribs.
Bamboo shoots are practically a national vegetable popping up in numerous dishes and are often pickled in brine. Soy braised duck and goose are regional specialities. There is restrained use of seasoning allowing the natural flavours of ingredients to come through. To flavour the richer and saltier meat dishes, honey and maltose are used, usually in a pouring sauce for pork, sliced ham and chicken. It is believed true Sweet and Sour originated in Shanghai but Beijing chefs will refute this, claiming it was originally an Imperial dish.
Steaming is very often employed as a cooking method and fish, meat and poultry are touched with ginger, sesame oil, soy sauce and pepper. Many dishes are wrapped in lotus leaves and steamed as lotus grows profusely in ponds, lakes and streams. The nuts are used in cooking and the lotus blossom is a revered icon – the Goddess of Mercy Kwan Yin is always pictured standing on a large lotus blossom.
Stir-fried dishes are often plain, seasoned only with soy sauce and pepper. Red-cooked dishes are the pièce de résistance of Shanghai chefs. Hangzhou and the West Lake area boast the most delicate hams and the world-famous Dragon Tea Well for which only the top three leaves of each branch are deemed worthy.
Yangzhou is the rightful birthplace of fried rice and many restaurants today still pay tribute by naming their dish Yang Zhou (Yeung Chow) Fried Rice, even though interpretation is often suspect!
